After first expressing an interest to go to Iceland I finally made it this summer. My original aim was to go with a BTCV project to one of the National Parks and help with some conservation work. For reason's I don't remember this didn't happen, so finally June 2015 saw me achieve part of this aim.
With an EasyJet flight from Luton airport to Keflavik airport, the journey was reasonably trouble free. The early morning Bedfordshire temperature helped prepare us for the colder Icelandic environment awaiting us. The two Buddhist monks waiting with us for the service bus looked ill prepared for the cold so hopefully they had warmer climes to visit.
Blue Lagoon & Salt Cod Museum
Hiring a car for the first part of our holiday enabled us to get around easily. Our first port of call was the Blue Lagoon. This geothermally heated pool was really warm and as the air temperature was decidedly cooler keeping your shoulders below the water level seemed a good idea. The silica content gives the water a milky look and seriously reducing the visibility. While expensive, it was a good experience and start to our holiday.
After taking the wrong road we found ourselves in Grindavik, where they have a Salt Cod Museum. Through displays and exhibits it outlines the history of salt Cod and its importance to Icelanders. Feeling tired from the early morning flight didn't help, but it was interesting! Our final destination for day one was Reykjavik and the City Hostel. This provided quick access to Laugardalur park for an early morning run.
Abaer historic buildings museum
On our way out of Reykjavik we stopped at the Abaer museum of historic buildings, which had all been saved from various parts of the city and surrounding areas. As it was the centenary of Icelandic women getting the vote the museum was free and quite busy with Scout groups. It was fascinating to wander around these old buildings which have been painstakingly rebuilt and furnished in period style. Well worth a visit for anyone interested in social and/or architectural history
Sneafellsness Peninsula
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| Oystercatcher at Hellner churchyard |
Staying in Grundarfjordur on the northern coast of the Sneafellsness Peninsula for a couple of nights allowed us to explore this area. When we set off in the morning there was an organised 100 mile bike race/sportive setting off along the coast roads. One rider I chatted to later in the day looked like he had bitten off more than he could chew, but at least he was camping rather than driving straight home.
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| Stone giant |
Driving around the coast we saw lots of evidence from previous volcanic activity, including craters, plugs and lava. A good coastal path enabled us to explore at a leisurely pace and apart from the section from Hellner to Arnarstapi, the area was reasonably deserted. There were lots of bird watching opportunities here and we were dive bombed by Arctic Terns for the first time this holiday. On the way back we picked up an Austrian hitch-hiker who spent the journey telling us about what he had seen.
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| Kirkjufell & reflection |
The final morning here was very bright and afforded me a great photo opportunity on my morning run. A brilliant reflection of Kirkjufell in the pool by the gravel track I was using. This is apparently one of the most photographed mountain's in Iceland and it is easy to see why. Our departure from this idyllic part of the country took us to Stykkisholmur, a sleepy fishing village with a ferry to the Western Fjords. Interesting architecture in the town included a nineteenth century Norwegian pre-fab house and a church shaped like a viking longship.
Solheimar & the Golden Circle
Our next stop was to be Solheimar Eco Village which provided good access to the Golden Circle and its main tourist attractions. The village was originally created for disabled residents but now also runs courses and has a guesthouse where rooms can be booked. Our first evening here introduced us to Icelandic access policies, we set out to walk down to the river Hvita along a freshly laid gravel track and saw various birds by the water and the droning from the wings of the Common Snipe. Rather than return by the way we had come we followed another track heading east, this eventually took us to a farm where we suddenly felt uncertain of our rights. It transpires that as long as you keep off the more cultivated fields/pasture farmers are fairly amenable.
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| Strokur at Geysir hot springs |
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| Gullfoss |
The Golden Circle started with Geysir hot springs, which we managed to see before the bulk of buses/coach trips disgorged their contents onto this amazing area. While Geysir is dormant its neighbour Strokkur put on regular performances while we were there. Our next stop was Gullfoss with its double waterfalls. This area is carefully managed with defined paths and viewing points to witness the power and force of the glacial river in action.
The final stop was pingvellir, where the spreading of the earth's crust along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge can be seen. From the main visitor centre we wandered around this area and into the adjacent lava fields. While the main area was very busy with coach trips the latter was completely devoid of people and we were able to enjoy the peace and solitude. The faint paths here took us through areas of dwarf birches and willow intermixed with bilberry, crowberry, heather and moss. there were still more fissures in this area, although of more recent origin.
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| Pingvellir |
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| Pingvellir Church |
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| less visited fissure |
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| Kerid crater |
On our return to Reykjavik we visited Kerid crater. Although best seen in sunshine, it still looked good in the overcast weather we were experiencing. Originally thought to be an explosive crater it now seems it is the result of a collapsed magma chamber. The water that collects in the crater rises and falls with the surrounding ground water and even today had a blue sheen to it.
Near the coastal town of Eyrcrbakki (home of one of the original explorers that 'discovered' America 500 years before Columbus) we found signs for a bird reserve. While the reserve was interesting, it was the drive along the rough gravel track that provided more opportunities to watch the birds. Beside the car we saw oystercatchers and Godwits performing endlessly, both going in and out.
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| Godwit |
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| Oystercatcher |
Reykjavik Midnight Sun Run
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| Official photo from the race |
23 June saw a large international field of runners descend on Laugardalur park for the 5K, 10K and half-marathon races. Starting between 9 and 10pm the three races were timed to finish reasonably close to each other through a shared finish line. Being Iceland, it doesn't actually get dark so although running at 10pm it was virtually as light as any other point in the day. It was only after planning our trip that I discovered this race, and managed to juggle around our bookings to enable us to be in Reykjavik on race day.
The race was well organised and the 10K route was challenging, but with some good downhills to compensate for the ups. This and the late evening running seemed to help as I managed to achieve my first PB for some time. I had considered the half-marathon, but with an imminent 9-day trek into the mountains it seemed wise to play safe. Finishing in 159th out of 763 runners was for me a good position. I decided to run in my Raleigh International vest (on right of photo in blue) as it is part of my
Tanzania Challenge to cover the 6,614 miles from London to Dar es Salaam.
Reykjavik explorations
Being Sophie's last day, we wandered around the city taking in many of the sights. As we reached the Solar Voyager, a steel sculpture of a Viking longship a group of old three-wheelers arrived. These were from the Czech Republic on a tour around the islands coastal road. Despite looking much older they were apparently built in 1968.
We didn't eat out much in Iceland, but in Reykjavik we did find a good vegetarian & gluten free restaurant - Garurinn Cafe. The menu is limited, but changes every day and is only open until about 6pm. We found something to suit our appetites and budget.
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| Danish tall ship |
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Monument to the Unknown
Bureaucrat |
Another find was a Danish tall ship in the harbour. This steel hulled boat was built in the 1930s and is now used as a training vessel for Danish students to learn new skills. They were travelling around the coast before returning home, and had already sailed around part of the British coast before coming to Iceland.
Reykjavik has a large number of statues, and probably the most amusing is the Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat. Also worth a visit is the Photographic Museum above the City Library with its regularly changing exhibitions.
Following Sophie's early morning flight home I made my final preparations ready for nine-day trek to Skaftafell across the mountains from just outside Kirkjubaejarklaustur.
On our way out of Reykjavik we stopped at the Abaer museum of historic buildings, which had all been saved from various parts of the city and surrounding areas. As it was the centenary of Icelandic women getting the vote the museum was free and quite busy with Scout groups. It was fascinating to wander around these old buildings which have been painstakingly rebuilt and furnished in period style. Well worth a visit for anyone interested in social and/or architectural history
Being Sophie's last day, we wandered around the city taking in many of the sights. As we reached the Solar Voyager, a steel sculpture of a Viking longship a group of old three-wheelers arrived. These were from the Czech Republic on a tour around the islands coastal road. Despite looking much older they were apparently built in 1968.
