An Icelandic Saga: trekking around Skaftafell - Scene 2

So the first unexpected part of our trek was over and it was time to consider getting back on schedule.

Part 2: Innribrekkur to Grænalón (& back) (28.3 miles)

Day 5 became a bit of a rest day and gave time to dry out wet boots before heading back into the mountains. A large part of the group were heading back to Reykjavik today as they were only booked for the first part of the trek. In there place two new members were joining us & furthering the international flavour of the team. With the new arrivals more food was due to arrive, but this was more limited than what was offered at the warehouse on Day 1. Lesson learnt here, stock up at the start just in case!

Around 6.30pm our transport out to Innribrekkur arrived, this was a rather ancient adapted minibus of sorts which would take the gravel track out to our start point and importantly safely across the Nupsa river and its myriad to tributaries rushing out to join the sea. Our packs were put in a trailer which bobbed up and down as we crossed the fast flowing waters. With water filling the footwells of the bus there was some concern over the state of our belongings in the trailer. Thankfully, only minor seepage appeared to be an issue.

Dropping off point on day 5

Iceland does have trees you can get lost in after all

Heading out 

Don't look down

Although we had a late start, we still needed to make some progress, so quickly set off along the rough track along the hillside. For some this was the first real challenge, excluding the river crossings. After around three miles we reached the sheer wall with an antiquated but serviceable chain running down its face. The only option was to climb the wall and our guide made the first ascent using the chain and then set up the belay rope for added safety.

Going up the chain

The view from above - safely belayed

The ascent was obviously time consuming as each person donned a harness and made their way up the wall with the aid of the chain and belay rope. It was a great experience to make the ascent with a full pack on my back and the time spent on an indoor wall proved useful. Finally once we were all on the plateau above and rope and harness were safely stowed in the packs we headed off to locate a suitable campsite. This was not too far away and while attempting to cook my meal, I realised the issue that was going to face me for the remainder of the trek - lack of an adequate evening meal.

On top looking for suitable campsites

The following day we were heading for Grænalón which on the map is marked as a glacial lagoon. We were told that it had largely dried out in recent years and that only glacial streams flow through it. This was a day that would challenge most of the group to some extent.

Again there were river/stream crossings and in one of the easier ones that involved stone hopping I managed to slip and get a bit wet. A quick change of trousers (yes I overpacked) and we were off again. It was to rain later, so a change into the Paramo's was not necessarily a bad thing.

Before lunch we had to make our way to the top of Sléttur a rather barren mountain top. To reach it we had to progress up a steep rocky hillside which consisted of more scree than vegetation. With careful footing this was a great way to summit our first top. For some this was a challenge, but wise words from our experienced French Alpine member helped them to achieve what might at times have felt the impossible.

traversing the steep hillside

Onwards & upwards on the scree path

the final pull to the top of Sléttur

Before long we were back above the snowline and made our way onwards. The areas not covered in snow proved to be a mixture of water, rock chippings and the beginnings of soil - not an ideal surface and any sunken footprints would remain for a long time! Finally the lagoon basin came into sight, as did the Grænafjall mountains on the far side - our hoped for overnight before tackling the Skeiðarárjökull glacier the following day.

Nupsa upper valley

Look I can cross this on one foot!

More snow!

Descending to the basin we could see several glacial rivers that needed to be crossed. The first was reasonably straight-forward & we rapidly donned our river shoes to get through its icy waters. Once across we reached a large area of raised black sand, once across we could see the next river crossing. It soon became evident that this would be the greatest challenge to date. From above it was possible to make out the speed of flowing water in its central channel was going to be a major obstacle. Our guide's assessment when he made his way down to the river was that its depth and flow speed was too great.

Scaling the sand bank

Testing the waters

With no other way across we retreated to the banks of the first lagoon river and pitched tents for the night. There was a somewhat optimistic hope that in the morning things would be different. Just from the sound of the water it was possible to tell that nothing had changed when we awoke. Added to this we now had good visibility across the Skeiðarárjökull glacier to  Skaftafellsfjöll mountains, which shrouded in their white winter coat did not look inviting.

Camping between the rivers

With no way forward, we spent the day back-tracking our route. Through the snow it was easy to see where we had been the previous day and in order to reach Innribrekkur 'beach' we had to carefully make our way down the rocky scree lined ravine below Sléttur, across the same rivers (no slipping this time) and abseil down the rock face aided by rope and chain. This aspect was much quicker than the ascent, no doubt aided by gravity pulling on our still heavy packs.

Back across the river

This looks familiar

Nupsarfoss

What goes up it seems must come down again

It wasn't long to wait for the 'rescue' and this time it was a much newer superjeep that turned up. The ride back was interesting, especially when the front left wheel went over a large boulder in the river and we all lurched to the right mid stream! Once back on the highway we headed straight to Skaftafell National Park campsite to complete our trip.

A modern SuperJeep to the rescue

Skaftafell campsite

The next phase of the trek can be read in Scene 3

Our walks plotted on Open Source Mapping for Iceland

Part 2 is the pale blue route marked in the middle of the map

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Since March I have been undertaking my Tanzania Challenge to cover the equivalent distance between London and Dar es Salaam (6,614 miles) and this trek contributed 106.5 miles to this total. During my time in Iceland (19 days) I walked and ran a total of 244.6 miles! If anyone fancies sponsoring me in my bid to raise funds for Raleigh International why not visit my Justgiving fundraising page.